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39
PATOLA SARI
PATAN, GUJARAT, CIRCA 1930
Handspun and handwoven silk, double-
ikat
,
natural dyes
172.25 x 46 in (438 x 117 cm)
$ 5,305 - 6,820
Rs 3,50,000 - 4,50,000
The double-
ikat
weave that creates a
patola
is
undeniably one of India’s most complex and
legendary weaving techniques. Woven on a
simple, horizontal hand loom with two string
heddles, the
patola
is always woven in a plain
weave. The intricate patterning is achieved by
tying and dyeing the warp and weft separately,
and according to the specific design of the
overall sari. When weaving commences the
warp and weft threads of the same colour
are juxtaposed accurately so that the design
gradually reveals itself.
Motifs of flowers and jewels, elephants, parrots,
tigers and dancing women were used either in
the border or in the central field, sometimes in a
grid-like alternating pattern. These were always
interspersed with geometric designs. Designs
varied between patrons who were largely from
the Hindu, Jain and Muslim communities with
the latter not wearing animal and human
figures. The present lot was worn by a woman
from the Muslim Bohra community, most
probably for a wedding. It features a
pan-bhat
or
pipal
leaf pattern also known as
vohra-gaji-
bhat
, along with the caterpillar, lotus flower
and stars. “Abdullah," who may be the name
of the agent or owner, is embroidered on one
edge of the
pallav
. A heavy silk, it was known as
cheera
and worn by the bride for her marriage
ceremony. Among the Hindus and Jains, the
bride did not wear the red
patola,
as it was
considered too powerful for a virgin bride.
Celebrated the world-over,
patolas
were highly
prized and patronised only by those who
could afford them. They took tremendous
patience and precision to make. While
double-
ikats
were woven in Patan and Surat,
patola
imitations were made in single-
ikat
in
Rajkot and Saurashtra. Today, while a limited
selection of
patolas
continue to be woven,
mostly by the Salvi Jain community, natural
dyes are seldom used, making the present lot
an extremely rare piece.
Old, undivided Bengal had an ancient textile
tradition, rooted above all in the skilled weaving
of delicate, light-weight muslins – the fine
mal-
mals
and
jamdanis
that Dhaka was especially well
known for. The finest handspun and handwoven
cottons in Indiaweremade inBengal andbelonged
to the group of textiles known as ‘Jamdani’ or
‘Daccai’ weaves. Originally named after the city
of Dhaka, and thus known as
Daccai
, the Persian
term
jamdani
(
jam
meaning flower,
dani
a vase)
came to be used as the textiles gained popularity
in the Mughal courts.
Jamdanis
were recognised
for their decorative floral patterns.
The fabric was made with extra-weft weaving,
which was non-continuous. The woven designs
ranged in quality from the finest
jamdani
woven
in the same shade and count as the weft yarn
to create a shadowy effect, to bold patterns in
multi-colours with a thick twisted cotton yarn.
Highly renowned, was the exquisite and fine
quality of the white-on-white
jamdani
, mostly
created as yardage material for garments. These
jamdani
weaves were largely made in Dhaka, and
were extremely valuable. They were patronised
by various Mughal emperors and even formed a
part of the annual tribute paid by Dhaka to the
Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb (1658-1707). The
translucent muslins with ethereal and delicate
floral patterning were highly prized. Though the
looms used were simple, the pattern detailing
was labour intensive and apart from time, it
required the dexterous and delicate touch of a
master weaver to make.
Saris were woven in a range of designs with
different coloured weft threads. The present lot
is an elegantly woven blue
jamdani
sari, made
as part of the textile revival movement initiated
by Ruby Ghaznavi in Bangladesh. The silver-grey
thread designs resemble a shimmering star-
studded night sky against the deep blue of the
ground colour. Known as the ‘Nilambari’ –
nila
for
blue and
ambar
for the sky – women longed to
wrap themselves in the star-studded sky.
38
NILAMBAR JAMDANI SARI
DHAKA, BANGLADESH, 1984
Handspun and handwoven cotton,
natural dyes, indigo
218 x 46.25 in (553.8 x 118 cm)
$ 1,520 - 3,035
Rs 1,00,000 - 2,00,000