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SWAT KURTI WITH PINK FLOWERS
SWAT PAKISTAN, CIRCA 1930
Handspun and handwoven cotton, hand
embroidered with untwisted silk thread, natural dyes
Length 34 in (87 cm), Sleeve span 57.75 in (147 cm)
$ 4,550 - 6,065
Rs 3,00,000 - 4,00,000
Swat valley in the north west province of Pakistan,
near the Hindu Kush mountains, is known for its fine
embroidered textiles. Placement, spacing and motifs
are what make the Swati textile unique. They show
a recognisable composition, a symmetrical placement
of patterns in neat rows, dense and tightly constructed.
The present lot is a woman’s blouse or
kurti,
with long
sleeves which would be worn over loose
shalwars
. It
is elaborately embroidered in shades of pink, red and
yellow on a black ground, the silk threads giving the
garment a rich sheen. Embroidered from the reverse,
in a technique similar to
phulkari
shawls, the designs
are first outlined with one running stitch and then
filled in, usually in a satin stitch. In keeping with
Islamic tenants, the designs tend to be geometric
and floral, and yet they are bold and convey a sense
of strength by the wearer. Jasleen Dhamija acquired
this piece in Karachi.