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64

65

31

FIVECOLOURED

PANCHRANGA

LEHARIYA BAGH

PUNJAB, CIRCA 1930

Handspun and handwoven

cotton, hand embroidered with

untwisted silk thread, natural

dyes

47.25 x 95.5 in (120 x 243 cm)

$ 3,035 - 4,550

Rs 2,00,000 - 3,00,000

The number of colours used in a

bagh

determined nomenclature.

Deviranga signified the use of

two colours, while

panchranga

,

satranga

and

navranga

indicated

the use of five, seven and nine

colours respectively. The colours

symbolised emotions and desires,

white for purity and peace, yellow

for happiness and fertility, red for

prosperity and green for nature.

This

panchranga

bagh

finely

embroidered in pink, green,

white, orange and purple silk

threads has a wave pattern that

references water.

32

BAGH WITH

ARCHITECTURAL

DESIGN

PUNJAB, CIRCA 1930

Handspun and handwoven

cotton, embroidered with

untwisted silk thread, natural

dyes

51.75 x 83.25 in (132 x 212 cm)

$ 2,275 - 3,790

Rs 1,50,000 - 2,50,000

Water was a popular motif

embroidered by women in the

Punjab, as seen in lots 31 and

32. Often depicted as a wave

(

leharia

) design, its association

with life-giving properties made

it an important motif in women’s

embroidery repertoire.

The three vertical bands in the

centre of the

bagh

shown here

probably allude to a canal of

water, important for irrigation.

The large stylised wave pattern is

a more pronounced reference to

the movement of water.