WOVEN TREASURES: TEXTILES FROM THE JASLEEN DHAMIJA COLLECTION (19-20 OCTOBER 2016)

Rabari woman with child in embroidered blouse, Kutch

The highly ornate, embroidered

choli

, or bodice is worn

by women from the Dhebaria Rabari community of

Kutch. A tight-fitting, brassiere-like garment, it is held

in place with strings that are tied around the neck and

under the bust at the back. All young Rabari women

wear embellished blouses for ceremonies and festivals;

they are also an important part of a bride’s trousseau.

Cut without a pattern, almost every bit of the ground

fabric is covered with embroidery, the types of stitches

and geometric motifs making them distinct.

Cholis

are usually thread-embroidered with traditional

flowering motifs and a variety of stylized birds and

animal patterns. These auspicious motifs were inspired

by the ‘Tree of Life’ and other fertility symbols. The

sleeves of the present lot are embroidered with designs

representing the female image, the cups and shoulders

with flowering blossoms fashioned as roundels. At the

back, the long rectangular motifs with a pointed top

are the

ambo

(mango tree).

with buttons, beads and cowrie shells,

natural dyes

Length 20 in (51cm),

Sleeve span 35.25 in (90cm)

$ 2,275 - 3,790

Rs 1,50,000 - 2,50,000