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92

93

50

TWO MALDHARI KURTIS

KUTCH, 20

TH

CENTURY

a) Handspun and handwoven cotton,

hand embroidered with cotton

thread, small pompoms, beads,

cowrie shells and mirrors, printed

cotton fabric

34.5 x 22.5 in (88.2 x 57.2 cm)

b) Handspun and handwoven cotton,

hand embroidered with cotton

thread, small pompoms, beads,

cowrie shells and mirrors, printed

cotton fabric

28.25 x 22.25 in (72.3 x 57 cm)

$ 6,065 - 9,095

Rs 4,00,000 - 6,00,000

(Set of two)

These elaborately decorated and strikingly

beautiful blouses, locally known as

gaggo

,

are worn over a calf-length gathered skirt.

Loose fitting and usually with short or

three-quarter length sleeves, they extend

below the hips.

They are worn by women from the

Maldhari Muslim community of

pastoralists settled in the Banni region

of Kutch. The yokes of the tunics are

embroidered with geometric patterns

and small floral motifs. A fringe of beads is

added to the ends of the sleeves and the

bottom edge of the blouse. Small black

pompoms have been added along with

the beads to one of this set of two

gaggos

.

An unusual feature of this tunic is the flap

extending down the back.

a b 49 THREE

KUTCHI

EMBRO

IDERED CHOLIS

KUTCH, 2

0

TH

CENTURY

a) Silk an

d cotton, embroidered

with za

rdozi

(gold thread)

17.5 x

32.5 in (45 x 83 cm)

b) Satin-s

ilk and cotton, hand

embroidered with silk thread,

mirrors, sequins

12.75 x 31.25 in (33 x 80 cm)

c) Satin-silk and cotton, hand

embroidered with silk thread

11.75 x 35 in (30 x 89 cm)

$ 2,275 - 3,790

Rs 1,50,000 - 2,50,000

(Set of three)

a b c

These elaborately decorated

backless

cholis

(bodices) from

Kutch are worn by women

on festive occasions and for

weddings. Made in contrasting

colours with decorated sleeves

and fronts, they are lavishly

embroidered with traditional

Kutchi floral motifs and small

butis

. a) has a pair of peacocks,

a symbol of love and longing, on

either side of the chest. In b) and

c) the floral motifs are enclosed

in a trellis like pattern. While a)

and b) are held in place by ties

around the neck and the lower

back, c) has small cloth buttons.