92
93
50
TWO MALDHARI KURTIS
KUTCH, 20
TH
CENTURY
a) Handspun and handwoven cotton,
hand embroidered with cotton
thread, small pompoms, beads,
cowrie shells and mirrors, printed
cotton fabric
34.5 x 22.5 in (88.2 x 57.2 cm)
b) Handspun and handwoven cotton,
hand embroidered with cotton
thread, small pompoms, beads,
cowrie shells and mirrors, printed
cotton fabric
28.25 x 22.25 in (72.3 x 57 cm)
$ 6,065 - 9,095
Rs 4,00,000 - 6,00,000
(Set of two)
These elaborately decorated and strikingly
beautiful blouses, locally known as
gaggo
,
are worn over a calf-length gathered skirt.
Loose fitting and usually with short or
three-quarter length sleeves, they extend
below the hips.
They are worn by women from the
Maldhari Muslim community of
pastoralists settled in the Banni region
of Kutch. The yokes of the tunics are
embroidered with geometric patterns
and small floral motifs. A fringe of beads is
added to the ends of the sleeves and the
bottom edge of the blouse. Small black
pompoms have been added along with
the beads to one of this set of two
gaggos
.
An unusual feature of this tunic is the flap
extending down the back.
a b 49 THREEKUTCHI
EMBROIDERED CHOLIS
KUTCH, 20
TH
CENTURY
a) Silk and cotton, embroidered
with zardozi
(gold thread)
17.5 x32.5 in (45 x 83 cm)
b) Satin-silk and cotton, hand
embroidered with silk thread,
mirrors, sequins
12.75 x 31.25 in (33 x 80 cm)
c) Satin-silk and cotton, hand
embroidered with silk thread
11.75 x 35 in (30 x 89 cm)
$ 2,275 - 3,790
Rs 1,50,000 - 2,50,000
(Set of three)
a b cThese elaborately decorated
backless
cholis
(bodices) from
Kutch are worn by women
on festive occasions and for
weddings. Made in contrasting
colours with decorated sleeves
and fronts, they are lavishly
embroidered with traditional
Kutchi floral motifs and small
butis
. a) has a pair of peacocks,
a symbol of love and longing, on
either side of the chest. In b) and
c) the floral motifs are enclosed
in a trellis like pattern. While a)
and b) are held in place by ties
around the neck and the lower
back, c) has small cloth buttons.