102-103 / 168
100
101
57
BALUCHI KURTI
SINDH (NOW PAKISTAN), CIRCA 1930
Handspun and handwoven cotton, hand
embroidered with silk thread, natural dyes, small
pompoms, mirrors
Length 41.5 in (106 cm), Sleeve 48.25 in (123 cm)
$ 4,550 - 6,065
Rs 3,00,000 - 4,00,000
This attractive red embroidered
kurti
or
kameez
is typical of the dress worn by Baloch women in
the Sindh region of what is now Pakistan. It is worn
over loose pants known as
shalwar
. Decorated with
multiple geometric designs in various sizes and
arrangements, as well as small mirrors, the overall
effect is harmonious. The neckline is embroidered
with small circles with a mirror at the centre, and two
rows of the same circles flank the neckline. The sleeves
are the most interesting, with a trellis-like pattern of
yellow embroidered squares, enclosing a circle with a
small mirror in each corner. The voluminous body of
the tunic is decorated with floral motifs made up of
small diamonds. Small black pompoms are placed at
the seams to accentuate the design. Mirrors were used
to highlight the designs and also to ward off the evil
eye, or
nazar,
from the wearer.
56
NOMADIC KUCHI WOMAN'S DRESS
AFGHANISTAN, LATE 19
TH
CENTURY
Handspun and handwoven cotton, hand
embroidered with untwisted silk thread, natural dyes
Length 42 in (107 cm), Sleeve span 66.5 in (169 cm)
$ 3,035 - 4,550
Rs 2,00,000 - 3,00,000
NONEXPORTABLE
Kuchi is a generic term used for the nomadic
pastoralists of Afghanistan. The term is derived from a
Persian word meaning ‘those who go on migration.’ At
one time, the Kuchi roamed large parts of Afghanistan,
extending into Central Asia, and were often seen in
caravans with their double-humped camels.
Kuchi textiles are highly embellished and decorated;
they embroider everything, and wear bright clothes
with large pieces of jewellery. The long-sleeved, knee
length tunic in the present lot is lavishly embroidered
with silk threads on both sides as well as the sleeves.
Diamond shaped patterns are a common motif in
Kuchi textiles and this is evident here in several forms,
along with a row of hexagon shapes towards the
bottom.