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This is a fine example of an elaborately designed
kani
shawl with large end borders extending almost
one-third of the way up the body of the shawl. Twill
tapestry weaving, known as
kani
, was perfected in
Kashmir. In the tapestry technique, a large number of
bobbins, each loaded with yarn of a different colour,
are used instead of a shuttle. Combined with the twill
weave and using the finest yarn it creates an effect
that is almost impossible to reproduce by mechanical
means.
Shawls were often woven in pairs and referred to as
doshala
, meaning two shawls. This referred to the
practice of weaving shawls in pairs so that they could
be stitched back-to-back so the reverse was not
visible, evoking the feel of a
dorukha
. These shawls
were especially popular during Emperor Akbar’s reign.
Elaborate shawls were primarily used by men. Among
the Parsi and some North Indian communities, many
affluent families were proud owners of pashmina
shawls such as seen in the present lot. They were an
important part of attire at most ritual functions and
were also given as gifts during Parsi weddings. Usually
part of the bride’s dowry, they could be used by either
the bride or the groom. The present lot belonged to
Jasleen Dhamija’s mother, who came from the frontier
region of Abbottabad.
63
LONG KANI SHAWL
KASHMIR, MID 19
TH
CENTURY
Handspun and handwoven Pashmina, natural dyes
55 x 114 in (140 x 290 cm)
$ 10,610 - 13,640
Rs 7,00,000 - 9,00,0000
NONEXPORTABLE