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62
KYRGYZ TENT HANGING
BISHKEK, KYRGYZSTAN, CIRCA 1930
Hand embroidered with cotton thread on cotton
fabric, satin in centre and edging
72.75 x 141.5 in (185 x 360 cm)
$ 1,520 - 3,035
Rs 1,00,000 - 2,00,000
Much of Central Asia was inhabited by nomads,
roaming the steppes with their herds of sheep, goats,
and horses. They lived in tents or yurts, made of felt
that were filled with decorative furnishings, finely
woven carpets and saddlebags. Among these were
beautiful tent hangings, known as
tuskiz
, which
adorned the yurt walls and typically featured floral
embroidery and designs reminiscent of the patterns
on felted carpets. The
tuskiz
both embellished the
tent and created an illusion of space. It was often
hung in the male demarcated areas of the tent, where
important guests would be seated in front, framed
by the border. The host’s wealth and status were
reflected in the embroidery, which was considered a
talisman to bring good fortune.
The motifs and patterns of the embroidery drew
from multiple sources, including
suzanis
, and often
echoed the ancient designs from the Silk Road
legacy. The floral motifs on the present lot are square
in shape rather than the more typically seen circular
patterns. Old
tuskizs
such as these are the only
reminders of the fine skills and aesthetic sensibilities
of the nomads, who were forced to abandon their
way of life under Russian rule.
61
TURKOMAN
EMBROIDERED COAT
GORGAN, IRAN, CIRCA 1950
Handspun and handwoven silk,
machine embroidery with silk
thread, gold-coloured cord
Length 40 in (102 cm), Sleeve span
35.25 in (90 cm)
$ 1,520 - 3,035
Rs 1,00,000 - 2,00,000
Handspun and handwoven red
silk coats with stripes were worn
by young Turkoman in Gorgan,
adjacent to the Caspian Sea
area. Slim cut but with a wide
flair, the lower flaps of the coat
area folded over to display the
embroidery on the inner lining
with an intriguing arrangement of
oval patterns. The coat is edged
with gold cord, giving it a regal
look and is generally worn over
fitted trousers and high boots.
According to Jasleen Dhamija,
this robe is similar in style to the
belted coat worn by Emperor
Kanishka in the monumental
statue at the Mathura Museum
in Uttar Pradesh. Kanishka was
the ruler of the Kushan dynasty
in the 2
nd
century.
Jasleen Dhamija bought
this coat
at Panch Shombe Bazaar in 1971
at the
Thursday
market of the
Turkomans where their special
products were sold and they
also organised horse racing and
cultural programmes.
Statue of Emperor Kanishka of the Kushan
Dynasty, 2
nd
century, Government Museum
in Mathura
Source: Biswarup Ganguly, via Wikimedia
Commons