WOVEN TREASURES: TEXTILES FROM THE JASLEEN DHAMIJA COLLECTION (19-20 OCTOBER 2016)

116-117 / 168

115 114
The arrangement of the trellis
design on the present lot is
ordered across diagonals with
more of the light brown ground
colour visible. Butas, filled with
small flowers appearing almost like
single buds, make up the border of
the garment. On either end of the
opening of the robe a larger more
stylised buta is embroidered with
the same floral pattern filling its
body. The robe is held together in
the front with toggles made from
cord.
Elaborate field patterns, involving
repeating flowering plants placed
in compartments and framed
within various lattice systems
were a feature of 16th – 17th
century
can be
attribute
Isfahan,
weaving
the Jaw
design
in India
The desi
pashmin
popular
The pre
Jasleen
for Ram
Kashmir.
sleeves i
made w
colour, t
65
EMBROIDERED WHITE CHOGA
KASHMIR, CIRCA 1930
Handspun and handwoven Pashmina, hand
embroidered, natural dyes, machine spun
and woven wool
Length 50 in (127 cm), Sleeve span 62.75 in (160 cm)
$ 4,550 - 7,580
Rs 3,00,000 - 5,00,000
64
SQUARE SHAWL WITH BOTEH
BORDER
KASHMIR, MID 19TH CENTURY
Handspun and handwoven Pashmina, natural dyes
84 x 86.5 in (214 x 220 cm)
$ 7,580 - 10,610
Rs 5,00,000 - 7,00,000
NONEXPORTABLE
This elegant square shawl, with a sophisticated palette
of subtle colours, consists of an unadorned cream-
coloured field, with a single buta in each corner, and
framed by equal borders on all sides. Nine swan-
necked butas, reminiscent of the classical period
span the length of each border. An all-over design of
scrolling vines bearing small buds and leaves fills the
space between the butas. A small border of gateways
circumscribes the entire piece.
This shawl was probably made for the Bengali market,
and may once have been owned by a wealthy
zamindar, an affluent trader, or even a Nawab of
Murshidabad who had a penchant for the delicate
black and red patterning on an ivory background.