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em carving is an ancient jewellery art form where precious or semi-precious stones were
given intricate sculptural detail through engraving or relief carving. During ancient times,
the gem cutters etched out patterns, motifs, images or inscriptions using flat-edged wheels
or round-tipped drills. Jaipur, Rajasthan and Khambhat, Gujarat are considered as gemstone
carving hubs in India, where master cutters have and continue to pass on their expertise and
legacies to the next generation.
In India, the carved motifs and patterns included symbols from nature, such as floral designs
which were reflective of traditional Indian architecture. During the Mughal period, the Taj Mahal,
with its exquisitely detailed marble carvings of flowering vines, proved to be a great source of
inspiration for gem cutters. Emeralds were particularly coveted in India, because they were rare
for the region. The stones poured into India through Goa and the Deccan ports, exported from
South America by Portuguese traders. “The lapidaries of India were master cutters and workers
of stones, as is exemplified by their magnificent and delicate carvings of emerald beads and
tablets. A rough crystal would be superbly cut to achieve the maximum depth of colour.” (Joanna
Hardy, “The Jeweller’s Art,
” Emerald: Twenty‒one Centuries of Jewelled Opulence and Power
,
Robert Violette ed., London: Violette Limited and Gemfields PLC, 2013, p. 98)
115
PAIR OF EMERALD AND DIAMOND
EARRINGS
Each centring on a carved square‒shaped emerald to a
surround set with round and fancy‒shaped diamonds,
mounted in gold.
Emerald: 13.10 carats
Diamond: 3.03 carats
Gross weight: 10.12 grams
$ 6,430 ‒ 7,860
Rs 4,50,000 ‒ 5,50,000
118
EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING
The ring is designed with a full‒cut diamond band
flanked with a carved emerald on one side and pear‒
shaped diamond on other side, mounted in gold.
Emerald: 19.68 carats
Diamond: 0.82 carats
Gross weight: 10.12 grams
$ 12,860 ‒ 14,290
Rs 9,00,000 ‒ 10,00,000
Ring size: American 6 1/2, English M 1/2
116
PAIR OF CARVED EMERALD AND
DIAMOND EARRINGS
Each designed as a carved emerald, suspended from
a line of four rose‒cut diamonds, mounted in gold.
Stamped ‘18K’.
Emerald: 30.25 carats
Diamond rose‒cuts: 2.75 carats
Gross weight: 12.50 grams
$ 20,715 ‒ 22,145
Rs 14,50,000 ‒ 15,50,000
117
EMERALD AND DIAMOND BRACELET
A contemporary bracelet with the centre row consisting
of carved emeralds with radiating spokes designed as
leaves surrounded by rose‒cut diamonds, mounted in
gold. Stamped ‘VAK’ and ‘750’.
Diamond rose‒cuts: 15.29 carats
Diamond: 0.80 carats
Emerald: 13.11 carats
Gross weight: 30.73 grams
$ 14,290 ‒ 17,145
Rs 10,00,000 ‒ 12,00,000
Some well-known examples of carved gemstones can be seen in the jewellery designs of Cartier,
which has been famously influenced by Indian jewellery since Jacques Cartier first arrived in
India to attend the Delhi Durbar in 1911. He saw India as an opportunity to secure clients, which
included the Nizam of Hyderabad, the Maharajas of Patiala, Kapurthala and Nawanagar, the
Begum of Bhopal and Aga Khan; as well a rich source for acquiring gemstones and pearls. By
the 1920s, even as French jewellers shifted from the floral and ornate designs of the Art Nouveau
period into Art Deco aesthetics, “Cartier made the spirit of the Maharajah’s jewelry and India
very much a part of its new look. Suddenly the collection that had been all about diamonds, pearls
and platinum was infused with colorful cabochons and carved gems. There was lots of movement
in the jewels. Some of Cartier’s motifs echoed shapes in traditional Mughal treasures.” (Marion
Fasel, “How India Inspired Cartier,”
The Adventurine
, online)
Although the vogue for carved gemstones in jewellery has waxed and waned since then, it
has recently had a comeback in the world of fashion and jewellery. From local Indian artisans
to well‒known Indian and international jewellery designers, gem carving craftsmanship has
evolved and taken this art form to new heights, making it a coveted form of jewellery among
connoisseurs and collectors.