AUCTION OF FINE JEWELS | ONLINE (15-16 OCTOBER 2019)

104

105

136

PAIR OF DIAMOND AND SPINEL

EARRINGS

Comprising of a flower‒head surmount of

polki

‒

diamonds suspending a similarly set flower‒head

design, further suspending a larger flower‒head design

of similarly set

polki

‒diamonds suspending a spinel

bead. The reverse is in red, green and pink enamel of

floral motif on gold ground.

Gross weight: 55.85 grams

$ 5,715 ‒ 8,575

Rs 4,00,000 ‒ 6,00,000

PROVENANCE:

Property from the private collection of a former

Indian Princely family

Private Collection, circa 1940s

137

EMERALD, RUBY, DIAMOND AND

PEARL NECKLACE

Of superior craftsmanship, the necklace is a stunning

combination of

jadau

‒work and enamel techniques.

A gently graduating row of pearls suspends a central

pendant centring on an emerald cabochon with a

similarly set surround of rubies, diamond

polkis

and

emeralds, further suspending a

kundan

‒set diamond.

The reverse has intricate enamel in floral motif in red,

green and blue on gold ground.

Gross weight: 107.83 grams

$ 10,295 ‒ 13,240

Rs 7,00,000 ‒ 9,00,000

PROVENANCE:

Property from the private collection of a former

Indian Princely family

Private Collection, circa 1940s

eenakari

refers to the technique of enamelling, which was widely practised during the

time of Emperor Akbar, from the 16

through the 17

centuries. Contrary to the belief

that it is a dying art, this style of enamelling is a widely practiced technique in India, with

Jaipur being home to many enamelling workshops. However, this tradition was not indigenous

to the subcontinent. According to historians, it was first introduced around the 13

century,

through Punjab, and flourished under the reign of the Mughals, spreading to other locations

from the royal ateliers. Benares (Varanasi), Jaipur, Lucknow, the Deccan, and Kangra in India,

as well as Multan and Lahore in Pakistan, are famed for their enamelling techniques. In this

tradition, even the reverse of an ornament was decorated with unmatched detail, most commonly

with floral and foliate motifs including chrysanthemums, lotuses, poppy flowers and rosebuds.

These would sometimes be interspersed with birds and animals, with gradations of colour in

the designs enhancing each motif. Mughal, and later Basohli miniature paintings from the

same region, incorporated similar floral motifs, seeking to recreate an equivalent of paradise.