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89

110

PAIR OF GEMSET EARRINGS

Each designed as a flexible line of three plaques,

centring a chrysoberyl to a surround of cat’s eye

chrysoberyl, mounted in gold. Stamped ‘18K’.

Chrysoberyl: 19.91 carats

Cat’s eye chrysoberyl: 9.63 carats

Diamond: 2.04 carats

Gross weight: 26.15 grams

$ 5,715 ‒ 7,145

Rs 4,00,000 ‒ 5,00,000

111

STAR PURPLE SAPPHIRE AND

DIAMOND RING

Centring on an oval‒shaped cabochon purple star

sapphire, with a surround of alternating square and

round diamonds, mounted in gold. Stamped ‘18K’.

Star purple sapphire: 7.54 carats

Diamond: 1.12 carats

Gross weight: 7.88 grams

$ 8,575 ‒ 10,000

Rs 6,00,000 ‒ 7,00,000

109

CAT’S EYE CHRYSOBERYL AND

DIAMOND BRACELET

Designed as a flexible bracelet with three gently

graduating cabochons of cat’s eye chrysoberyl, with

full‒cut diamond surrounds connected by similarly

designed diamond‒set links, mounted in gold.

Gross weight: 15.98 grams

$ 12,145 ‒ 15,000

Rs 8,50,000 ‒ 10,50,000

O

ne of the oldest and best known coloured precious stones, sapphires are composed of a

colourless material known as corundum. The deep blue colour most commonly associated

with this gemstone is caused by the addition of titanium and iron during its formation. However,

fancy sapphires occur in a varied spectrum of colours, including ‘pink’ sapphires, which can

range from shades of red to purple.

Many sapphires contain inclusions, such as those which cause the stone to have a star‒like

appearance – a phenomenon known as asterism, originating from the ancient Greek word for

‘star.’ This effect is caused by thin mineral needles which are aligned such that they reflect

and “scatter light, causing the coveted visual effect without negatively affecting the gem’s

transparency,” and effectively increasing the value of the stone. “The best star corundum has a

crisp, distinct star against strongly saturated colour,” which is situated at the top of the stone, has

straight rays, and moves smoothly across the surface. (“Sapphire Quality Factors,”

GIA

,

gia.edu,

online) The stone must be cut as a cabochon to exhibit asterism, and the number of intersecting

bands (usually 2, 3 or 6) determine the rays of the star. In the present lot, three streaks create a

mesmerising six‒ray star.

These luminous, highly durable stones were considered powerful and mystical talismans,

bringing luck and protection to travellers and seekers. They were referred to by some as “the

stone of destiny.” According to legend, “The celebrated explorer Sir Richard Francis Burton

travelled the Orient with a large star sapphire, known as an

asteria

. He found it brought him

much luck, as the stone’s fame preceded him in his travels. Many believed simply viewing the

talisman meant good fortune.” (Fara Braid, “Sapphire Symbolism,”

International Gem Society

,

gemsociety.org

, online)

Some of the largest star sapphires in the world – including the blue

Star of Adam

(1404.49 carats),

the greyish‒blue

Star of India

(563.4 carats), and the violet‒blue

Star of Bombay

(182 carats) –

were mined in Sri Lanka, and the world’s second largest star sapphire,

Black Star of Queensland

(733 carats) was discovered in Australia. Other significant locations of star sapphire deposits are

Myanmar and Thailand.

T

he present lot contains chrysoberyls, one of the few gemstones that exhibit chatoyancy

or the ‘cat’s eye’ effect. This phenomenon occurs due to sets of rutile needles inside the

stone aligned in the same direction. When light interacts with the needles, it produces a streak

of light that reflects from the dome of the stone. This effect is most pronounced when the

stone is cut to produce a cabochon. Translucent‒yellowish in colour, the cat’s eye chrysoberyl

originates in Brazil, India and Sri Lanka, and is one of the nine auspicious gems or

navratna

in Indian astrology.