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48

49

T

he turban has always been an

especially potent symbol of manhood

and dignity in Indian culture. For royalty,

it was an expression of political power

and stature, augmented by elaborately

designed pieces of jewellery, usually

made of gemstones and feather plumes.

“Chief among several kinds of ornaments

used to decorate the turban are the

sarpech

, the

kalgi

, the

sarpatti

and the

turra

. According to Mughal sumptuary

laws, these ornaments could only be worn

by royalty, blood relatives of a chief, and

honored individuals, the latter generally

being nobility or high officials. They

acquired special importance as symbols

of hierarchical power.” (Oppi Untracht,

Traditional Jewelry of India

, London:

Thames and Hudson Ltd, 1997, p. 381)

While the

sarpech

was affixed to the front

of the turban, the

turra

was attached to

the side. As seen in the present lot, the

turra

was often in the shape of a bird,

with a cluster of pearls forming a tassel

suspended below. In the Mughal attire

seen in early miniature paintings, the

tassel was completed by an emerald bead

and a small gold thread. In the late 19

th

and early 20

th

centuries, Indian maharajas

were photographed wearing turbans

adorned by elaborately designed tassels.

58

GEMSET

TURRA

OR TURBAN

ORNAMENT

Stylised as a bird with colourless sapphires and green

enamel on gold, the bird has ruby cabochons as its

eyes and suspends a pearl tassel at the bottom and

an emerald bead from its beak. Above the bird is a

stylised flower set with colourless sapphires.

Gross weight: 49.79 grams

$ 3,575 ‒ 6,430

Rs 2,50,000 ‒ 4,50,000

59

GEMSET

BAJUBAND

OR ARM

ORNAMENT

An openwork of centre green stone to a surround of

colourless stones set in floral motif.

Gross weight: 36.30 grams

$ 2,145 ‒ 3,575

Rs 1,50,000 ‒ 2,50,000

60

EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING

Centring on an oval‒shaped emerald with an immediate

surround of rose‒cut diamonds and a further surround

of ruby and foliate engravings on the shank, mounted

in gold.

Emerald: 6.98 carats

Diamond rose‒cut: 4.02 carats

Diamond: 0.32 carat

Gross weight: 16.09 grams

$ 5,715 ‒ 8,575

Rs 4,00,000 ‒ 6,00,000

Ring size: American 6 3/4, English N