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48
49
T
he turban has always been an
especially potent symbol of manhood
and dignity in Indian culture. For royalty,
it was an expression of political power
and stature, augmented by elaborately
designed pieces of jewellery, usually
made of gemstones and feather plumes.
“Chief among several kinds of ornaments
used to decorate the turban are the
sarpech
, the
kalgi
, the
sarpatti
and the
turra
. According to Mughal sumptuary
laws, these ornaments could only be worn
by royalty, blood relatives of a chief, and
honored individuals, the latter generally
being nobility or high officials. They
acquired special importance as symbols
of hierarchical power.” (Oppi Untracht,
Traditional Jewelry of India
, London:
Thames and Hudson Ltd, 1997, p. 381)
While the
sarpech
was affixed to the front
of the turban, the
turra
was attached to
the side. As seen in the present lot, the
turra
was often in the shape of a bird,
with a cluster of pearls forming a tassel
suspended below. In the Mughal attire
seen in early miniature paintings, the
tassel was completed by an emerald bead
and a small gold thread. In the late 19
th
and early 20
th
centuries, Indian maharajas
were photographed wearing turbans
adorned by elaborately designed tassels.
58
GEMSET
TURRA
OR TURBAN
ORNAMENT
Stylised as a bird with colourless sapphires and green
enamel on gold, the bird has ruby cabochons as its
eyes and suspends a pearl tassel at the bottom and
an emerald bead from its beak. Above the bird is a
stylised flower set with colourless sapphires.
Gross weight: 49.79 grams
$ 3,575 ‒ 6,430
Rs 2,50,000 ‒ 4,50,000
59
GEMSET
BAJUBAND
OR ARM
ORNAMENT
An openwork of centre green stone to a surround of
colourless stones set in floral motif.
Gross weight: 36.30 grams
$ 2,145 ‒ 3,575
Rs 1,50,000 ‒ 2,50,000
60
EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING
Centring on an oval‒shaped emerald with an immediate
surround of rose‒cut diamonds and a further surround
of ruby and foliate engravings on the shank, mounted
in gold.
Emerald: 6.98 carats
Diamond rose‒cut: 4.02 carats
Diamond: 0.32 carat
Gross weight: 16.09 grams
$ 5,715 ‒ 8,575
Rs 4,00,000 ‒ 6,00,000
Ring size: American 6 3/4, English N