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34

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37

PAIR OF GEMSET EARRINGS

The surmount of each of the earrings is an articulated

star motif centring on an emerald cabochon and six

ruby cabochons, suspending an inverted pear set with

a central emerald cabochon and surrounding ruby

cabochons, further suspending a tassel of gold links

with ruby cabochons and seed pearls.

Gross weight: 48.88 grams

$ 1,645 ‒ 2,645

Rs 1,15,000 ‒ 1,85,000

PROVENANCE:

Property of a descendant of Kunwar Sardari Lal Chopra

36

PAIR OF GEMSET REVERSIBLE

CHANDBALI

EARRINGS

An unconventional pair of

chandbalis

comprising of

a flower‒head terminal, suspending a stylised crescent

of table‒cut diamonds. The reverse is set in

navratna

gems, further suspending

kundan

‒set

polki

diamonds

and a fringe of pearls.

Diamond

polki

: 18.00 carats approximately

Gross weight: 77.54 grams

$ 5,000 ‒ 6,430

Rs 3,50,000 ‒ 4,50,000

I

n ancient Indian philosophy, the

navratna

, or the nine stones, represent the powers of nine

planets or deities, and are believed to channel these to bestow good health and fortune

on those who wear them. The deities with whom they are associated are aligned in a certain

direction, and when incorporating the stones into amulets or jewellery, the arrangement is as

important as the stones themselves. This arrangement is in conjunction with Hindu cosmological

beliefs which conceived of the universe as containing seven planets, and two personifications

of the moon. Based on this, the ruby, which represents the sun, occupies prime position at the

centre. It is surrounded or flanked by the remaining stones, which include the pearl (moon),

emerald (Mercury), diamond (Venus), red coral (Mars), yellow sapphire (Jupiter), blue sapphire

(Saturn), hessonite (Rahu, which is the ascending lunar node) and cat’s eye chrysoberyl (Ketu,

which is the descending the lunar node).

38

NAVRATNA

BRACELET

Designed as a flexible bracelet with

navratna

stones

with

kundan

‒set diamond

polki

along the edges. The

reverse is in red and green enamel in floral motif on

gold ground.

Gross weight: 15.95 gramss

$ 1,790 ‒ 3,215

Rs 1,25,000 ‒ 2,25,000

PROVENANCE:

Property of a late Indian film actress