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82

JAJIM WITH

GALLOPING HORSES

SUKHANDARYA, CENTRAL

ASIA, CIRCA 1930

Handspun and handwoven wool,

natural dyes

68.5 x 147 in (174 x 374 cm)

$ 6,065 - 9,095

Rs 4,00,000 - 6,00,000

This large

jajim

is made from nine

equal pieces stitched together

along the selvedge. It is edged

along the lengths with black

and white wool to keep the

fabric strong and taut. Woven

by women, it was probably used

as a spread or cover in tents by

the nomadic pastoralists who

lived in these areas. Designed in

alternating stripes the pattern is

an ancient form of a galloping

horse. The animal was crucial to

the nomadic way of life and this

jajim

could, in a sense be paying

homage to the horse.

In 1996, Jasleen Dhamija was

working

in

Kashka-Dariya,

Uzbekistan, when she attended

the traditional celebration of

Buzkashi, literally ‘goat grabbing’

in Persian. It refers to a rough

game, said to be the origins of

polo, where expert horsemen

speared a goat or calf carcass and

fought their way to the goal with

it. During this game, the winner

was presented with a car and this

jajim

. The winner later sold the

jajim

to Jasleen.

81

RED CHOGA MAN'S ROBE

KASHMIR, CIRCA 1930

Handspun and handwoven wool, hand embroidered

50.5 x 67.25 in (128.5 x 171.2 cm)

$ 4,550 - 7,580

Rs 3,00,000 - 5,00,000

This striking man’s robe in red wool with fine embroidery in yellow and

orange threadwork makes a regal statement. The embroidery has been

done on sections that are attached to the edges of the robe, at the slits of

the pockets, around the shoulders and on the back. Elegant and stylised

botehs

, in various sizes, some small and forming a repeat pattern, others

with the long, graceful neck of a swan are visible. The robe is closed with

two buttons, made of the same embroidered fabric, with toggles.

The robe is large in size, indicating that it was probably tailored for a

statuesque man.

Chogas

such as these were often made on commission

for men from the Punjab or Rajasthan.