FINE JEWELS AND OBJETS (18-19 OCTOBER 2016)

16-17 / 116

14 FINE JEWELS AND OBJETS | Online Auction 15
THEWA
Thewa is a unique form of jewellery-making that dates back more
than 300 years to the Mughal era. It is a traditional art created
exclusively in the Pratapgarh district of Rajasthan. Thewa is made
by the fusing of 23 karat gold sheets with multi-coloured molten
glass. The glass is treated to make the gold glitter and reflect
off its surface. Thewa jewellery was first created by a goldsmith
named Nathu Lal Sonewal in 1701. It soon became popular
among royalty, and Maharaja Sumant Singh was a patron of the
Sonewal family in 1765. The technique was a closely guarded
family secret and flourished with Victorian patronage. Thewa
jewellery soon found its way to Europe and some pieces can be
seen in the collection of Queen Elizabeth. Thewa jewellery was
presented by the Government of India to Prince Charles upon
his marriage.
Thewa designs are typically based on the stories of Srinathji of
Nathdwara, Radha-Krishna, or other religious deities. Scenes
from nature, including hunting, jungle flora and fauna and water
are also popular themes. The intricate designs are carved into
the gold sheets with steel pens and other tools are then used
to create pierced sheets through which the multi-coloured glass
below becomes visible. The thewa technique can be seen in
jewellery as well as decorated objets d’art.
11
PERIOD THEWA BRACELET
Graduating oval links of gold and thewa‒work enamel
connected by gold chains.
Gross Weight: 32.50 grams
$ 1,895 ‒ 3,410
Rs 1,25,000 ‒ 2,25,000