8-9 / 160
8
9
1
GEMSET PENDANT
Designed as a flower‒head centring on a circular
emerald cabochon with a surround of ruby cabochons
and table‒cut diamonds, suspending a spinel, mounted
in gold.
Diamond
polki
: 2.00 carats approximately
Gross weight: 24.71 grams
$ 2,145 ‒ 2,860
Rs 1,50,000 ‒ 2,00,000
2
PAIR OF GEMSET EARRINGS
Each centred on a rose‒cut diamond with concentric
rows of ruby cabochons, table‒cut diamonds
and emerald cabochons with seed pearls along
circumference, mounted in gold.
Diamond
polki
: 4.00 carats approximately
Gross weight: 35.51 grams
$ 2,860 ‒ 4,290
Rs 2,00,000 ‒ 3,00,000
3
PAIR OF GEMSET
KARNPHOOL
EARRINGS
Of a flower‒head style, each centred with a foil‒backed
emerald cabochon and a two‒tiered surround of
polki
diamonds and foil‒backed ruby cabochons, with seed
pearls along the circumference, mounted in gold.
Stamped ‘18K’ on the post.
Gross weight: 47.38 grams
$ 2,145 ‒ 3,575
Rs 1,50,000 ‒ 2,50,000
4
GEMSET EARRINGS
Designed as a flower‒head centring on a
kundan
‒set
polki
diamond to a surround of foil‒backed red stones
in stylised bezels, mounted in gold. Stamped ‘18K’ on
the post.
Diamond
polki
: 3.25 carats
Gross weight: 20.73 grams
$ 2,860 ‒ 4,290
Rs 2,00,000 ‒ 3,00,000
I
n Indian culture, fresh flowers, buds and garlands have been used for decorating the body.
Flower heads, for instance, were worn on the earlobes. However, due to their perishable
nature, they began to be replicated using more durable materials, including stone and metal,
and later, clusters of gemstones. “From the idea of a single flower placed in an earlobe hole…
comes the Hindi term
karanphul
(ear flower), an important, universal, large, round metal
flower-form earring with a central stud at the back equivalent to a flower stem…” (Oppi
Untracht,
Traditional Jewelry of India
, London: Thames and Hudson Ltd, 1997, p. 381) This
traditional flower-head earring was widely depicted in miniature paintings, and has remained
unchanged and popular for centuries.